MegaSquirt PNP Gen2 Documentation
Model/Vehicle Specific information for model
MSPNP2-MK9395 on a 1993-1995 Ford Probe, Mazda MX-6, and Mazda 626 with a
2.5L V6 or 1992-1994 Mazda MX-3 with a 1.8L V6.
Please read all documentation before
installing your MegaSquirtPNP EMS, and verify you've followed all steps
before starting your engine for the first time.
Physical Installation
All you'll need for a
successful install are some basic hand tools. No drilling, or cutting of
the original sheet metal or bracketry is required. Because of this you
can easily revert back to the stock ECU at anytime if need be. The
MSPNP system also includes all the vacuum line and T's needed.
In addition to what is
pictured above, you may also want to consider:
-
Zip ties
-
1/4" drive socket
set ( metric )
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Electrical tape (
optional, for securing vacuum line / serial cable )
-
Sharp punch or awl
(a small Phillips screwdriver will work as well )
So lets dive right in.
Begin by removing the shift knob and passenger's side floor mat, if
there is one, to allow access for pulling the carpet back.
After getting those out of
the way, we'll continue by removing the center console and climate
control trim panel as the factory ECU is located directly in front of
the shifter behind the lower console.
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Pull the E-brake handle
all the way up.
-
Open the cup holder /
arm rest storage compartment to gain access to the two screws in the
bottom of the compartment. Remove cup holder/armrest from rear of
console.
-
Remove the upper center
console trim by gently pulling up from the rear of the car, popping
the retaining clips loose along the length of the console. ( see
below: )
-
Unplug the cigarette
lighter harness, and remove the light bulb socket by giving it a
twist ¼ turn to the left.
-
Remove the 2 screws
retaining the bottom of the climate control trim panel.
-
Next, pop the trim
panel from around the climate control and radio, again being careful
with the retaining clips. Then unplug the four colored connectors
from the rear of trim panel. ( Black, Orange, White, and Blue )
-
Now, you'll need to
remove the lower half of the center console. Open the rear ash tray
will remove the two 10mm nuts. Remove the two screws that secure the
lower center console just in front of the parking brake handle.
Lift the lower console over the parking brake handle and shifter
assembly by lifting the rear first and then sliding out of the way.
-
At this point, you'll
see the factory ECU mounted in the center of the dash under the
climate control and radio head unit. Disconnect the white connector
and antenna cable just above the ECU. Remove the two 8mm
screws holding the factory ECU bracketry.
-
After unplugging the
factory ECU connectors ( Yellow in the above picture ) and removing
the factory ECU, we will move on to running the vacuum line for the
MegaSquirt PNP MAP sensor. It is important that this be a good
strong manifold vacuum source and try to avoid, kinks, hot spots, or
anything abrasive that may damage this line. This signal is critical
to the proper operation of the MegaSquirt PNP system.
-
The MAP sensor
vacuum hose will pass through the
large rubber grommet that the factory wiring harness passes through
the fire wall. There is an area just to the right of the factory
harness that, using your sharp punch/awl or small screwdriver, you
can easily poke a hole through to pass the MAP sensor vacuum hose
through. Optionally, install the included threaded bulk head fitting
into the hole you just made in the grommet. This will prevent
the hose from possibly becoming pinched within the grommet.
Otherwise, simply pass the hose through the grommet into the engine
bay.
-
Route a piece of vacuum
line from here and along the factory harness to the back of the
MSPNP. Loosely secure the vacuum line in place against the factory
harness with zip ties. Be sure not to pinch the hose by
pulling the zip ties too tight. This is also a good time to run your
serial communications cable from the rear of the MSPNP to a suitable
place that is easily reached out side outside of the console, easily
reached once everything is back together.
-
Now you're ready to
install the MSPNP unit itself. It fits great in the factory ECU
location, but you will have to make a couple of changes. By default,
the harness routes underneath the factory ECU. Pull the ECU
connector harness free from the plastic clip that holds it to the
carpet and route the harness above the top of the MSPNP.
Securely mount the MSPNP ECU with zip ties and plug-in the harness
connectors.
Moving under the hood:
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If you used a bulkhead
vacuum connector, cut another length of vacuum line and attach it to
the connector. Route the line up and to the right
(passenger's) side of the engine underneath the spark plug wire
retaining clips. This makes for a nice clean install in which you
can barely see the vacuum line at all. Again, use zip ties to secure
the vacuum line to the ignition cable stands. Continue routing the
line to the vicinity of the fuel pressure regulator. You can
see the vacuum line for the MAP sensor routed in the picture below.
( black hose against the valve cover directly above the "M" in Mazda
and routed around the front of the engine to the grommet passing
through the firewall).
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There is already a
vacuum "Y" or "T" fitting in place for the fuel pressure regulator
and a vacuum rail that runs beneath the throttle body. Use a short
piece of hose and another "T" fitting next to the existing fitting.
-
At this point, it is safe to power the ECU up, but please make sure
you load the appropriate startup map for
your specific engine before attempting to start the vehicle. Using
the wrong startup map may result in a no-start condition, or even
engine damage if the engine is driven hard before the correct map is
loaded.
-
Re-assemble the interior trim panels in the reverse order from
above, taking care to install the climate control trim prior to
installing the upper half of the center console.
Verifying and Adjusting Base Timing
Because the factory ECU is
no longer in control of ignition timing, it will be necessary to make
checks to ensure the MSPNP is accurately delivering the proper timing.
Improper ignition advance can cause engine damage if improperly set or
is left unchecked.
The MSPNP 2 will have a
base ignition map loaded and ready to use. However, it is necessary to
ensure that the timing advance being commanded by the MegaSquirt is in
sync with what the engine is actually seeing. These steps will require
the use of a timing light and a laptop with a copy of TunerStudio
running.
-
Following the
manufacturer's directions, carefully install a timing light on the
cylinder #1 spark plug wire. Use all due caution here, as secondary
ignition voltage can be as high as 100,000 volts or more. Also
ensure that the timing light's cords can not get tangled in a moving
engine or burned on hot components.
This is the timing mark on our Probe test car. Painted white for
clarity. Top Dead Center is the first long mark on the right side of the
indicator. ( to the right of the white mark in photo )
-
Make sure your
tuning laptop is connected to your MSPNP and start your vehicle. If
you have not already done so, go ahead and open up TunerStudio MS or
TunerStudio Lite tuning software that you have already downloaded
and installed on your laptop. Make sure that your laptop connects to
the MSPNP and you are online.
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Navigate over
to the Ignition Settings -> Ignition Options/Decoder Wheel (For v1.2 MSPNP2s, go to Basic Setup
-> More Ignition
Settings). This
will open the More Ignition Options Menu. If Fixed Advance is set to
Use Table, go ahead and set it to Fixed timing. This will tell the
MegaSquirt to ignore our Ignition Table and hold a fixed advance. We
will then need to enter a value in Timing for Fixed Advance
(degrees). The value we enter here will be a static value that our
MegaSquirt will use to command ignition timing. 10.0 is the default,
and will work here. Burn these changes and close this menu. (Ignore
the sections not highlighted in blue rectangles.)
-
Use a timing light to confirm you
have 10 degrees of timing on the crank pulley. If you have more
timing, increase the number called Tooth #1 Angle under Trigger
Wheel Settings. If you have less, decrease the number. For example,
if your Tooth #1 Angle is 60 degrees and you're seeing 15 degrees of
timing, change Tooth #1 Angle to 55 degrees to bring the timing to a
real 10 degrees. Note that these changes only take effect when you
turn the ECU off and back on again.
-
Now we need to
allow the MSPNP to command timing from the Ignition Table again.
Close the Trigger Wheel Settings and go back to Ignition Settings -> Ignition Options/Decoder Wheel (For v1.2 MSPNP2s, go to Basic Setup
-> More Ignition
Settings). Set your Fixed Advance back
to Use Table. Burn and close this menu. The MSPNP is now advancing
based on your ignition table.
Fan control
Your MSPNP is set up to use the PM4 -
Accel LED output for fan control. The engine coolant temperature
is monitored and whenever the temperature exceeds 187 degrees F, the fan
will come on. The temperature setting can be changed by selecting
menu Boost/Advnaced ->
Programmable On/Off Settings (for v1.2 MSPNP2s, select Extended -> Output Port Settings) ; Click
"PM4" in the list on the left to find the temperature limit.
VRIS control
The MSPNP is configured to use PT6 - InjectorC to
actuate the VRIS1 solenoid and PT7 - Injector D to actuate the VRIS2 solenoid.
By default, VRIS1 is active during the range of 3250-6250 RPM. VRIS 2 is
active through the range of 4250-6250 RPM.
Optional Wasted Spark
Provisions
have been included in the MSPNP to remove ignition control from the
distributor and allow ignition from a coil pack.
V1.2 PCB
|
V1.3 PCB
|
DB15 Pin |
Quad Spark Wire |
Function |
2 |
Yellow |
Spark Out A - Cylinders 1 and 4 |
3 |
Orange |
Spark Out B - Cylinders 2 and 5 |
4 |
Green |
Spark Out C - Cylinders 3 and 6 |
|
DB15 Pin |
Quad Spark Wire |
Function |
17 |
Yellow |
Spark Out A - Cylinders 1 and 4 |
16 |
Orange |
Spark Out B - Cylinders 2 and 5 |
15 |
Green |
Spark Out C - Cylinders 3 and 6 |
|
Please note that these outputs cannot
drive a coil directly. An external ignitor such as our
QuadSpark would need to be installed between the coils and MSPNP.
Coils with built in drivers would also work. Below is an example
wiring diagram depicting the installation of a QuadSpark with the MSPNP: |
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|
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Conversely, the QuadSpark can be wired directly to the N76 connector on the
front of the MSPNP. The coils wire as depicted below (accessory
connector not provided):
Pin |
Channel |
Function |
QuadSpark Wire |
1G |
Ignition A |
Coil 1/4 (Located in Existing Harness) |
Yellow |
2G |
Ignition B |
Coil 2/5 |
Orange |
2H |
Ignition C |
Coil
3/6 |
Dark
Green |
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to access the main PCB within the MSPNP and jumpers must be installed in the locations below marked in blue. Jumpers denoted in red indicate default jumper locations. |
NOTE: The Microsquirt Module must be removed to access
this jumper location. |
|
In TunerStudio, select Ignition Settings -> Ignition Options/Decoder Wheel (For v1.2 MSPNP2s, go to Basic Setup
-> More Ignition
Settings) and
change "Number of Coils" to "Wasted Spark".
Removing the Mass Air Flow Meter
Since the MSPNP calculates engine
load using a MAP sensor, it ignores the signals generated by the AFM
(air flow meter). While not necessary, it is recommended to
remove the AFM for a small performance increase.
However, the IAT (intake air temperature sensor) is part of the AFM and
its signals are used by the MSPNP to adjust fuel trim based on the
intake air temperature.
We strongly recommend installing a GM IAT sensor in order to allow the
ECU to correct for air temperature variations. The best location for an
IAT sensor is just upstream of the throttle body. There are two points
on the MSPNP where you can connect an IAT sensor. If racing class rules
do not permit you to remove or even unplug the mass air flow sensor, you
may wire the IAT to pins 10 and 15 on the 15 pin connector on the MSPNP.
A GM IAT sensor and connector kit can be
purchased separately at our online store (part number
PNP_IAT-A includes an aluminum bung while part number
PNP_IAT-S includes a steel bung).
-
Crimp each of the included terminal
ends to a piece of wire, and be sure to use heat shrink and / or
electrical tape on the terminals to prevent any moisture, dirt
contamination, and or shorting.
-
Plug the wires into the AFM connector
as shown below. The sensor is non-polarized, so either wire
can plug into either position.
-
Route the wires to your Intake Air Temp sensor that you previously
installed. On this car in particular, there is a nice space next to
the fuse box and under the cruise control unit. ( pictured below ).
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After installing the IAT, turn the ignition key on but do not start
the engine. Connect to the MSPNP with TunerStudio. Go to the "Tools"
menu and select "Calibrate Thermistor Tables", select "Air
Temperature Sensor", and select "GM" from the "Common Sensor Values"
drop down box. Leave the bias resistor setting at 2490.0 ohms.
Click "Write" to Controller. This will update the sensor
calibration in the MSPNP.
Note: If you are using
the MSPNP with a turbo or supercharger:
After removing the AFM, install an IAT sensor in the location pictured above which is just
before the throttle body inlet. The IAT needs to measure the air
temperature as it's entering the engine, not the ambient air temperature
in the engine bay as would be measured by the AFM. Only by placing
the IAT just before the throttle body can an accurate air temperature
measurement be taken AFTER the compressor has heated the air, and the
intercooler has cooled it. Accurate air temps are needed for
proper fueling and ignition advance calculations.
Sensor Calibration
If you need to recalibrate your
temperature sensors, such as after loading firmware, here are the values
to use for the stock sensors. These work for both factory CLT and IAT
sensors. GM IAT sensors can use the defaults in TunerStudio.
|
Temperature (degrees F)
|
Temperature (degrees C)
|
Resistance (Ohms)
|
|
|
-4
|
-20
|
15000
|
|
|
104
|
40
|
1100
|
|
|
176
|
80
|
300
|
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